Flat tappet Camshaft Break-in and maintenance
Mike Phillips
Automotive Machine & Performance
Philpot, KY
   
   Over the past several years there has been a dramatic increase of premature
   camshaft failures no matter who it was ground by.
   There have been no changes in camshaft or follower materials or heat treatment                
    from ANY of the cam grinders.

   By the end of 2004 it was finally revealed that the so called "improved" versions               
    of all the major oil companies  conventional and synthetic blends had greatly                     
    reduced the additives ( primarily zinc) from their content.
   This was the result of an EPA mandate to further decrease auto emissions, then                
    under pressure from the major Detroit auto makers, the engine oil manufacturers              
    removed most if not all zinc additive from engine oil.

   Most oil companies used to have about a 0.11 % zinc content as an extreme                    
    pressure, anti-wear additive. The zinc is only used when there is actual metal                    
    to metal contact in the engine ( when an engine is first started the lifters on a                      
   flat tappet cam are skidding across the lobes until the oil pump gets oil to the                     
   lifter and then it has to leak by the lifter bore to the lobe) the zinc compounds
  react with the metal to prevent scuffing and wear.

   The following oils are know to have the above minimum or more zinc content.
   Penn Grade 1 (formally Kendall) now made by Brad Penn Racing Oil
   Valvoline VR1 labeled off road use only
   Shell Rotella T and Chevron RPM DELO (A change in formulation has recently                    
     been made, so I'd make sure it is the old formulation)
   Rennegade Racing Oil (this is no longer a private label made by Brad Penn so                           
     I'd be careful here also)
   Redline Synthetic Racing Oil
   Amsoil Synthetic Racing Oil

   There are several sites that list amounts of zinc in other brands but some                    
     of these sites have not been revised in the last few years.
READ THIS FIRST
  1- Coat the lobes of the cam with the lube supplied (I substitute Isky moly cam lube
on all the engines I build but you must just coat the lobes with it and not have
excessive amounts between the lobes and be careful not to get it on the journals, then
change oil after break-in)
 2- Use a good high zinc content oil for break-in such as Brad Penn 30w break-in  oil
and a container of Comp Cams # 159 break-in lube
 alternatives -- Valvoline VR1 and Crane break-in lube
 3 - Keep spring pressures under 250 lbs at full lift for break-in.
 4 - Make sure the engine is primed, ignition timing is close to running specification,
carburetor is in good working order and full of fuel before cranking engine.
 5 - Start engine and bring RPM's to 2,500  as soon as you see oil pressure. Run at
that RPM for a minimum of 20 minutes.
 6 - Change springs, re-start and run for an additional 5 to 10 minutes at 2,500 RPM
 7 - If the engine is to be dyno'ed change oil after ring break-in pulls have been made,
if it was in the vehicle change oil after break-in.
  
  Use only oil with zinc content of 0.11 ppm minimum
  I recommend not using full synthetic on drag race engines the first race, oval track
engines after hot lapping and qualifying and street driven vehicles for at least 500
miles.